Archive for the ‘New Orleans Festivals’ Category

New Orleans’ Ten Best

December 31st, 2010 by Nancy Fournier


It seems every magazine and newspaper article has their selected ten best lists of 2010 today so while I am waiting for the guests to come down for breakfast I decided to compile my own 10 best New Orleans personal experiences in 2010.

1.        Fishing for redfish in Barataria Bay – A month after they capped the well in the Gulf ad some spots were open for fishing, we decided to support our local charter boat captains and spent the day out on the water catching redfish.  They were plentiful and shimmering in the water and delicious to eat!

2.       Listening to roosters’ crow on an early morning in the Marigny- We stayed with friends in the Fauborg Marigny (the neighborhood to the east of the French Quarter) who have a large backyard garden.  Sitting with coffee in hand in the diffused morning sun we heard roosters throughout the neighborhood and it brought me back to times in the Dominican Republic.  We really are the northern most Caribbean country!

3.       Treme at Treme- Going to the Treme Gumbo Festival and seeing Wendall Pierce and Clark Peters from the HBO Treme series there eating gumbo and dancing to Shamar Allen like the rest of us.

4.       Beignets at café Du Monde- Yes a touristy thing to do but something every local enjoys every once in a while.  Our son and girlfriend were visiting, the sun was shining the café au lait was perfect and the powdered sugar five inches deep, good company and yummy beignets.

5.       Marching with the Krewe of Dead Pelicans- when the BP oil spill happened we all felt so angry and helpless and worked out our frustration with a good old New Orleans parade complete with costumes and a brass band.

6.       Attending the Burlesque Review- New Orleans hosts a national burlesque competition in the fall.  Curious about how burlesque is making a resurgence we went to the final night review showcasing the winners of the competition, while I enjoyed the acts, it was the merchandise in the lobby I really loved, who knew there so many versions of fishnets and pasties existed?

7.       Wearing my Saints shirt every Sunday- I never really rooted for a team before and living in New Orleans in 2010 means you are a Saints fan.   Everyone dresses on game day and you cannot go anywhere without seeing folks in saints shirts, and that includes nurses working in the hospital, wearing them under  their scrubs.  I sport my “12” Colston jersey with pride and feel part of something larger than myself on game day.

8.       Listening to Kermit Ruffins rehearse with a full orchestra swing band – We made the rounds on my birthday and one stop was at the Mid City Rock and Bowl (dance hall and bowling alley for the uninitiated) and before the show we went in and listened to my favorite trumpeter play and croon songs from the 1940’s, even took a spin on the dance floor!

9.       Surrounded by tubas- Tuba Fats was one of New Orleans most famous tuba players and they had a second line for him this year at the jazz and Heritage Festival with all the best tuba players in the city participating.  I don’t know how but I ended up in the middle of them as we marched throughout the Fairgrounds, tubas as far as the eye could see and the swell of their music, it was like marching in the midst of musical elephants.

10.   Landing a Drew Brees football during the Bacchaus Mardi Gras Parade- Long story, suffice it to say there were crowds, Superbowl champions , Saturday before Mardi Gras and Drew Brees throwing plastic footballs to the crowd.  I am my far the smallest and most sober of those around me, but when the smoke cleared, we have a keepsake on our mantle!  Here’s hoping for a wonderful 2011 and Two dat to all!

Christmas Shopping in New Orleans

December 16th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

Yes Christmas is coming and there is baking and shopping to be done as well as parties to attend.  If most of the country is finding their bundles for under the tree on line or at the mall, here is New Orleans we prefer to perform our elf duties at street festivals.  After all our guests were settled on their activities for the day, Guy and I spent the entire Saturday going from one street festival to another to get our fill of presents, music and of course food.  We started at the Kingpin Christmas Fair which is a small little watering hole a few blocks from the inn, described in Zagats as one of the greatest dive bars in the city..  Every December they host an art market for the holidays, it is strange to enter a bar (the contrast from a bright sunny day to the dark diffuse light of a dive bar was a novel Christmas shopping experience!) and see handmade masks and pottery on the bar and hand painted purses next to the jukebox.  My favorite this year were necklaces made of zippers fashioned as flower petals and rosebuds.  A friend of ours was selling her small ceramic dolls which looked like a cross between Mexican Day of the Dead figures and Toulouse Lautrec dancers.  Very bohemian and perhaps a bit much for early Saturday afternoon so we headed to Ferret street for their annual Ferrestivus a fusion of art market, libations and music.  So many wonderful crafts to choose from, I particularly loved the antique leather fingerless gloves refashioned through a batik tea stain and small rosettes at the wrist made from the fingers.  There were beautiful ceramics and soaps and heavenly jewelry.  Strolling through the aisles to the sounds of the Free Agent Brass band, munching on a tasty cochon du lait po-boy  and sipping fresh spiced tea.  There is a friendly neighborhood vibe there and everything to hand rolled tamales to Christmas wreaths done up in black and gold in honor of the Saints.  We then headed down to the Treme Gumbo Festival which is put on by the Jazz and Heritage Foundation.  Again more Christmas present possibilities (we picked up a 2008 Jazz Festival tote bag for $5, what a bargain) and admired the blown glass pelicans.  The highlight of the festival is the multiple samplings of gumbo available and the music.  We arrived in time to hear Shamar Allen and Kermit Ruffins play.  Fabulous music and food all for free.  While catching up with friends and the gumbo and music was great the highlight was seeing Wendell Pierce and Clark Peters both featured actors on the HBO series Treme.  How perfect to see the cast of Treme in Treme!  That was all we wanted for Christmas. Beats a day at the mall anyday!

Christmas in New Orleans; Bling in the Holidays!

December 4th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

We are now in the thick of the Holiday Season.

New Orleans Christmas Mantle

Christmas is one of the few times New Orleans is in synch with the rest of the country, usually we are going all out for a holiday (like Mardi Gras ) that most of the country doesn’t even recognize, this time we are in step with the rest of the nation.  For this first weekend in December in New Orleans and we are hosting a Christmas Parade downtown- the Krewe of Jingle! Followed by a jungle mingle block party, there are nightly concerts in the Cathedral in the square and holiday open houses where selected beautiful homes both in the French Quarter and the Garden District are festooned with holiday decorations and open themselves up for visitors.  Up and down St. Charles Avenues the grand homes are draped in greenery and red and gold ribbons.  When it comes to decorating for Christmas, here in the Crescent City you cannot have enough gold touches!  While Williamsburg Virginia has their pineapple and fruit cornucopia over their front door transoms and Santa Fe is well known for the small lights in transparent adobe brown bags lighting the walkways, and we all know about the bright red balls on the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree, down here it is all about the gold!   Gold piping on the ribbons, gold sequins in the tree ornaments, gold sprayed twigs in the flower arrangement, gold sequins on the Christmas sweaters.    For New Orleanians, decorating requires our glue gun (always at the ready) some greens and a zillion ways to sneak gold into the color scheme.  We are like teenage rap stars dripping with gold necklaces and five inch sparkling rings- what can we say –we love our food spicy and our music funky and our Christmas decorations in gold. Whatever you think about us, you cannot confuse us with those who prefer muted tones!

November Festivals in New Orleans

November 3rd, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

A Party in the Streets at the Po-Boy Festival

Every one knows that spring is prime time for Festivals in New Orleans where things start with Mardi Gras and culminate with the Jazz and Heritage Festival and a ton of music and food events in between.  But the fun little secret is ever since Katrina the Fall has also become chock full of lesser known but great New Orleans festivals.  This weekend on the  6th of November, one of our favorite little local festivals, the Mirliton Festival in the Bywater  happening with great bands, food and local music.  It has a totally local vibe with neighborhood restaurants, local artisans and musicians, in a pretty little park about ten minutes from the French Quarter.  Next weekend the New Orleans Po-boy Festival is back and expanded on Oak Street in the Riverbend section of New Orleans.  In addition to thirty different purveyors of delicious New Orleans po-boys,(everything from oysters to duck to Vietnamese poorboys, umm umm) there will be three music stages with the likes of Jon Cleary, Rebirth Brass band and appropriately enough Los Poboycitos which is a great fusion of swamp/tecate music.  Only in New Orleans, we can’t wait, will you be there?



Sully loves the Saints

September 12th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

Just another week in New Orleans- national press covering
the Saints opening game, guests from Minnesota all decked out in Viking horns
and purple hair at breakfast and gumbo pots fired up for mid week tailgating
all at ten in the morning.  We rode our
bikes down to the Superdome to see Champions Square, just outside the dome, a
wide plaza ringed by NOLA restaurants, with these six story high banners of
prolific New Orleans athletes.  It was
such a festive atmosphere, everyone in black and gold, fleur de lis press on tattoos
and feathered boas everywhere (except for those pesky Minnesota guys in breast
plates and blond braids! I am soo glad we don’t have to dress up like
Vikings)  We have never been football
fans until we moved to New Orleans and suddenly Guy just had to have a white
Saints shirt for the opener (the black one he bought last year would not do)
and we have a huge TWO DAT banner adorning our porch and cannot think of
anything else we should be doing when the Saints are playing.    The
city got to shine for a national audience,  what a relief to finally have cameras here for
some reason other than a disaster or the anniversary of a disaster, and once
again we showed the country what everyone here already knows, if you want to
have fun and be around a ton of other friendly people who want to have fun,
hear great music eat incredible food and cheer for a national champion, ain’t
no place like New Orleans.Who Dat, When the Saints go marching in...New Orleans Saints Superbowl ChampionsWho Dat, When the Saints go marching in...New Orleans Saints Superbowl Champions

Saturday in New Orleans

June 14th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

We went to the Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival yesterday to enjoy the Creole tomatoes, eat our local seafood and hear some good dancing music.  It was a typical June day in New Orleans, hot and steamy, bougainvillea blooming against a steel blue sky.  The festival is held along the river in the French Quarter and is actually three festivals in one, celebrating the Creole tomato, local seafood and Cajun and Zydeco music.  The tomatoes are fabulous, rich earthy smooth taste, seafood is still thankfully plentiful and the music is just what a hot sultry day called for.  Cajun is a slower waltz-tempo music sung in French with a mournful fiddle accompaniment.  Zydeco is kick up your heels dancing music featuring an accordion and washboard.

Power of Blues #1 Just as we walked up to Dwayne Dopsie & the Zydeco Hellraisers the sky opened up to a Louisiana rainstorm pelting the area with thick wet drops.  With steam rising from the sidewalks, a few ran for cover but most folks just kept dancing. The band was tearing it up and their washboard player was incredible with energy and a great sense of rhythm, he had long arms and a skinny torso so from the side he looked like a stick figure with a washboard drawn on his front but boy could he play.  A few hours of listening, a dance of two between the raindrops, toe tapping under a wrought-iron gallery, a beer or two we  hopped back on the streetcar to the Sully Mansion where two couples who were guest of the inn and had formed a friendship at breakfast were sitting in the porch together drinking wine sharing stories of their lives.  Just another Saturday in New Orleans

New Orleans Uniqueness

June 6th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

We are often asked by our visitors what makes New Orleans unique.  The obvious answers;  our food, the music, our own lexicon of expressions, Mardi Gras Indians practicing on a Sunday afternoon hint at the answer.  This weekend I think we had a good gumbo of activities which evidences why we are like no place else.  While the oil still flows, one guest went to pick up her sister at the airport but was planning a route which would avoid the President’s motorcade for his third trip here in so many weeks.  Despite events in the Gulf, the Louisiana Oyster Festival was in full swing in the French Quarter and I spent all day Friday at neighbor’s house across from the inn making our costumes for the Krewe of Dead Pelicans march Saturday night to protest the inactions of BP to halt the spill.  The march was the brainchild of Ro Mayer who is a realtor here in New Orleans who  felt she needed to do something rather than sit back and watch the destruction of our coast. So, in true New Orleans spirit the call went out for people to gather on Saturday evening in the Arts District and while the galleries had their monthly wine and cheese receptions, we would march to a brass band pulled together for the occasion, dressed in shrimp boots, parasols covered with oil and pelicans, sea turtles and crabs.  Not a lot of organization, just an idea and a social network to pass the word.  We went as oyster beds with oil droplets hanging from our shells.

Here I am as an oyster bed

Blue traps left over from Katrina days were stretched out with paraders moving the tarps to simulate the waves of the Gulf, and we had black crepe streamers to serve as the plumes.  I was interviewed by a journalist from the LA Times who expressed her confusion about why we were not an angrier group.  I tried to explain; we channel our anger here into creative celebrations which honor our own way of embracing the world.  As with all self styled parades here we picked up more people as we went along, numbering close to 200 as we wound our way through warehouses and galleries.  There was eleven minutes of silence by Gailler Hall and the streetcars stopped in their track, politely waiting until we were finished, appropriately respectful and somber.  I kept trying to imagine an uptown bus in Manhattan being willing to wait.  But what I love best about my adopted city, is as the two of us walked home, dressed as oyster beds, shells clanking as we moved up the block and stopped in a bar to cool off, perched on a stool with seaweed draping from our stools, a women on a date, one stool over in her shoulderless cocktail dress did not give us a second look, just another day in New Orleans, people costumed because that is one way we give expression to our thoughts.

Dancing for a Cause

May 17th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

It is ten days since our last post and we still don’t know the impact of the oil spill in the Gulf.  All of us in New Orleans are following the news closely and there is a sense of waiting , as the currents move the slick first closer than further from our coast lines, and while we wait, some local corporations decided to throw a party to raise money for the shrimpers, oystermen and fishermen of Louisiana whose lives have been put on hold.  There was a review of the music of the Treme series in the New York Times this weekend which put it better than we can  “…more than any particulars of charters or plot, it is the stubborn persistence of New Orleans music- as communal ritual, as cultural currency that forms the backbone (they were talking about the television show but it is easily applicable to any facet of the city).  So after cleaning the inn we went down and among enormous Mardi Gras floats, with the Mississippi River flowing by, amazing seafood specialties offered from our best restaurants we listened and danced to Big Sam’s Funky Nations, Soul Rebels, John Legend, Zachary Richard, Lenny Kravitz, John Legend, Ani DiFranco, Allen Toussaint and the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, , and the Voice of the Wetlands as afternoon slipped into the evening- all played soulfully tunefully and beautifully.  It was one of those special New Orleans moments where we really felt like a special community, bringing our best gifts of food music and compassion to respond to a crisis.  Wish you were here to share it.

Jazz Fest In New Orleans

April 26th, 2010 by Nancy Fournier

It is Jazz Fest time and we made it through the first weekend out at the Fairgrounds with a little bit of every kind of Louisiana weather from torrential downpours to heavy warm wind to beautiful blue skies and sunshine.  Just like the city itself you can come to the Fest and only focus on food, or mainly look at the beautiful art, but in the end it all comes back to the music.  Whatever gets your hearts soaring, be it the bass rhythms of the gospel tent, or zydeco dancing at the Fais Do Do stage, the blues which will break your heart or the beat of brass bands getting you off your feet and dancing.

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